After a marvellous 2 weeks in Brittany with my son Graham, wife Becky and 3 grandchildren - Chris, Mary and I met at the boat in Crooke nr Wigan on Monday 15 August. After loading, we set off straight away. Told pound above first lock VERY low so we waited for boats to come down with water whilst having lunch then continued to Wigan with hotel boat Periwinkle. We were soon tackling the Wigan flight alone (no boats going up or down) and despite most locks against us we reached the top at 7.50, travelling on till 8.30 to eat our previously prepared meal. Now ahead of time but we have nearly 3 weeks of travelling an average of 7 hours a day to complete our cruise together. This is the third time I have done the L&L but never before anti-clockwise.
Tuesday saw us dressed for heavy rain, passing Botany Bay and then working Johnson's Hillock locks with nb Free Time then on through Blackburn. Sunny Wednesday we went on to Burnley, used canalside Morrisons in Nelson then up Barrowford locks with hire boat nb Boston Belle to moor at the top with lovely views.
Thursday, hot and sunny, we set off at 8am to go thru Foulridge Tunnel, with bacon butties after! Now the views are getting better and better as we reach the highest point of this canal. At Bank Newton locks we saw Diana and Bernard on nb Arthur Crossland who we met doing the Ribble Link last year. Continued on to Gargrave, re-explored village in time for the heavy storm at 6pm.
Friday, warm and sunny, 4 miles on we got a mooring in the centre of Skipton, toured the market and had a delicious meal in the Woolly Sheep. Met up with Jenny who Linda and Peter had seen many times when she and Kelvin ran a pair of hotel boats nbs Caldon and Ashby. We went on to moor for the night in the peace and quiet of the country near Low Bradley.
Sunny Saturday we went on to explore pretty, canal-side Kildwick, then lovely countryside on thru Silsden, Keighley to moor at Bingley. We had followed a boat through about 7 swing bridges - they shutting every bridge and dashing to their boat just as we arrived!
Dry and breezy Sunday we set off through Bingley 5 with nb Blue Jake and then on to Bingley 3 - all by 8.55! We all travelled on to Saltaire. We love this historic village. Looked in the Mill (big book shop floor!) then did the heritage trail round the village. Back to the boat for lunch then into Roberts Park, beautifully restored in 2010, Went up Shipley Glen in the tram but very dissappointed that the lovely, ancient funfair at the top was now abandoned and decayed. Continued on to moor in the country at Buck Hill Swing Bridge - where we had our only possible BBQ of the trip!
Monday 22 August, hot and sunny, we went on to Apperley Bridge (basin diesel closed) and went on through Rodley (no diesel now) but at 12am found the very heavy Moss Swing Bridge was stuck. Passers by helped, no luck. Rang Yorkshire Water (owners) 3x - useless. We needed to get to Newlay Locks by 3pm to go to Leeds. At 2.45 huge BW workboat came, pushed bridge open and we made it to locks by 3.09 - lockie unlocked them for us and helped us down! Well done BW!! Arr Leeds Stations moorings (empty!!) at 7.08. The area is now quite different, new buildings, CCTV and with hookup! We had been amazed at how few boats we had seen moving on L&L, less then 6 years ago.
Tuesday, warmish am, hot and sunny pm. Mary left to get 6.15am train to Southampton to visit very poorly aunt. At 9am Chris and I had a quick walk to station area, then set off through River Lock on to the R Aire. Saw narrowboat 'submarine' outside the Industrial Museum on the outskirts of city. Stopped at Woodlesford, tiny store and town much nicer by navigation! Went on to Castleford lock mooring - and found BW office pulled down! Luckily on-duty lockie able to sell us a Calder and Hebble handspike. Then passed by huge tanker entering lock! We turned onto River Calder - a first for us. Passed delightful moorings at Fairies Hill, (now on Aire & Calder Nav) and continued on to Stanley Ferry Aqueducts (parallel) Here there is a large pub and lots of popular moorings (is this where all the boats have gone to?!) Now able to take on diesel too.
Wednesday, warm and sunny. Continued on to Fall Ing lock and the Calder and Hebble Navigation (spike not needed here!) We skirted Wakefield, only really seeing industrial side from the river. At each lock we went armed with BW key, ant-vandal key, windlass and 3' handspike - not knowing which would be used, and every one was different! Horbury Bridge looked OK for overnight but we continued on to Dewsbury as Mary was rejoining the boat that evening. Went up Dewsbury Arm - but no visitor moorings, so turned with difficulty and moored below locks. Mary arrived at 6pm walking from bus station.
Thursday cool and overcast, pm hot and sunny. On through much industrial areas but found lovely moorings and boatyard above Shepley Bridge. Stopped for lunch, hanging off lock moorings above Cooper Bridge lock. Then 1/4 mile on found visitor moorings before C B flood gates! We turned left at junction and soon found ourselves entering the first lock of the Huddersfield Broad Canal - which seemed strangely small after the river locks. Now we can dispense with the heavy handspike! Continued on thru 9 locks to Turnbridge Loco Lift Bridge - very quaint. Whilst Chris operated the bridge, 3 policemen came to move on some drinkers. They then chatted to us, one saying he had always wanted to go on a narrowboat. I offered him a lift and he travelled through the bridge with us! He said he would keep an eye on the boats overnight - some problems with drinkers near Sainsbury's. We went on to moor opp Sainsbury's car park - again many boats moored here - does anyone actually cruise up here? - we see very few on the move!
Friday, overcast then dry then dull! Did a big shop before going under the new road bridge - now on Huddersfield Narrow Canal. Past University buildings, then through and under huge building works - rather grim. On and up 15 locks through Huddersfield, beside lots mills, under railways (towell on prop!), mostly uninteresting. No moorings so very late lunch taken quickly on lock mooring (almost raining!) Out into the countriside, the pound above lock 16 (near a beautiful converted mill) was very shallow but we decided to risk it. Mary rang from lock above - 4 hours ago a boat there had reported the problem and BW advised them to stay put, until the level rose overnight. Too late for us, soon Chris with 60' to go went aground. 3 half lockfuls later and Chris was in - the last load of water went down to previous lock and bounced back to push the boat slowly in! 4 locks later we arrived in Slaithwaite at 7.45 and almost dark, mooring above 21. Fish and chips for our efforts!
Saturday 27 August BH - cool most of day. After a wander around this interesting town (good for supplies) we set off at 10.30. Passed a popular bakery factory/shop at lock 24 and on to the only guillotine lock on a narrow canal - and was it heavy too! Soon after this we reached lovely countryside with splendid views - plenty of time at each lock to admire! Stopped briefly for lunch when got plastic bag on prop, then moved on to moor by the winding hole above lock 31, turning to enjoy the view! Eggs and veg for sale at lovely cottage. We had a walk up the last 11 locks to see the moorings near the Standedge Visitor Centre. Walked back through Marsden (as seen in TV soaps) and then to the boat.
Sunday 28 August BH - dull, showers, some heavy. Turned the boat again and set off thru the 11 locks to station. Trip boat told us to moor there, in a dull muddy cutting with no other boats, because he had to turn at cafe (despite there being a winding hole). We pleaded ignorance to this rule and he eventually said we may be allowed to moor opp the cafe, by the weir. This we did - and thought that this gave the visitors a chance to actually see a modern narrowboat, other than the trip boats. Never were we in anyone's way - and found that we were the only boat going through the tunnel in the morning! After lunch we were able to make our own visit to the Visitor Centre - lots of good info but constant, loudly irritating, recorded voices which made it difficult to concentrate on what you were reading. Went for tea in cafe - but it was raining and there were only 2 tables inside, plus a queue for them. Shame they couldn't use the spare tunnel trip boat as seating. We returned to the boat for tea. In the evening Mary and I walked up part of Boat Lane where the horses were taken over the tunnel.
Monday 29 August. Dry am, showers/rain pm - eve
Woke at 6.30 and cleared the roof - including the plants, bikes and roofbox which was emptied and upended inside. BW men arr at 7am and measured the boat's width and height. The tallest, 6'5", was going to be our guide! At 8.50 Chris and Mary sat in the bow, with Ebony tied up and I donned reflective jacket, lifejacket and hard hat. Off we went into the rocky 3.2 mile tunnel. Not too bad at first but BW chappie pointed out, with his torch, the roof height rocks to avoid and told me when to slow down at wide parts before entering narrow more rocky sections, or S-bend. Got a shock when a torch was shone on us as we passed - there was a man standing beside the boat in one of the 8 escape tunnels to the old rainway tunnel where his van was parked. Yes I did hit the sides a few times, scratches to prove it. Also, due to projecting decorative trim on rear gunnel throwing me off course, I managed to tear the front cratch. Luckily we have the boat booked for a repaint and new cratches in October. After this very exciting tunnel journey we had coffee and biscs with the 3 BW men while they waited 3/4 hour to take 2 boats back through the tunnel.
We set off, downhill now, through the Saddleworth locks. After a few, Mary cycled off to get buses and trains to Southampton to see her now extremely poorly aunt. Sadly she died an hour before she got there and Mary spent a few days making necessary arrangements. Chris and I continued down this very scenic flight, stopping for the night at Dobcross. Linda walked a mile to Tesco's to retrieve Mary's bike!
Tuesday 30 August, rain and showers. We stopped at Uppermill (plenty moorings but dull under trees) to explore town and visit very interesting museum - local and weaving info. After lunch we set off through more lovely views and small towns, then thru Mossley, mooring after Scout Tunnel.
Wednesday 31 August - cool, overcast, better pm/eve. Continued down thru locks, passing under a straddled pylon and moored at 11am in Stalybridge. We used the time for a few boat jobs, shopping, then Mary's train arrived at 1426 and we set off at 1450 to work another 5 locks to Portland Basin/Dukinfield Junction where we moored for the night. Time for an exhausted Mary to relax. Indeed we are all feeling rather tired with such a busy trip.
Thursday 1 September - warm and sunny, trees turning yellow - autumn? After 2 1/2 miles we arr at Fairfield 2 locks. At Clayton locks we found a queue. Mary cycled down and found a singlehander on nb RM. She phoned to say she would help him and we soon speeded up. One crew on hire boat in front came to help us. We stopped at Asda for lunch etc then did 7 more locks to moor in lovely Thomas Telford Basin at Piccadilly Village. Later walked to China Town to get a take-away!
Friday 2 September - warm, then hot and sunny pm. Worked locks to Castlefield basin, had lunch, then Chris went by train to get car from Crooke nr Wigan whilst Mary and Linda took the boat (now lock-free too!) to Waters Meeting Junction, down through Sale (where we found Chris cycling to meet us) and on to moor right opposite Dunham Massey Hall.
This now marks the end of our big cruise. 19 days, 167 miles, 222 locks, 40 opening bridges and 8 tunnels. Thoroughly enjoyable but very tiring - will take it more easy next year!
Apologies anyone who has been waiting for this very late blog! No time whilst travelling!
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